Interesting discussion in the comments to this post by Budapest's resident Northern-Irish-man about the quality of guinness on mainland Europe and beyond. Though there seems to be a consensus that one could only rely on pubs in Ireland and Britain to provide a decent pint, I have never had a "proper" pint of guinness outside of Ireland.
The best pint I have ever had in London, while considerably superior to the worst I have ever had in Ireland (of which more later), still doesn't taste as a "proper" pint should. I am happy enough to drink "British" guinness but it doesn't taste the same to me as "Irish" guinness. However, while being poured in Ireland might be a necessary condition of a "proper" pint, it is most certainly not a sufficient condition. I have been served many execrable pints on this island and there are a number of cardinal sins committed by insufficiently attentive or downright incompetent bar staff.
Firstly, I would like to note that the "double pour" - whereby the pint is poured to about 80% full, allowed to settle and then topped up - is a complete red herring and has no effect, good or bad, on the quality of a pint. My understanding that his practice dates from a time when there were actually two taps for stout and while it is a jealously guarded ritual, the breach of which is taboo, I have it on good authority from the proprietor of Peter's Pub, purveyors of peerless porter, that a "single poured" pint is indistinguishable in taste from that poured in the traditional manner.
While the double pour itself isn't a cardinal sin - if it were, "guinness hell" would be a crowded place - it does make possible one of the cardinal sins: the delayed second pour. If a pint is left too long sitting waiting for the top-up, it can "go off". A more aggravated version of this is when, instead of "your" pint which has been sitting waiting for the top up, the barman tops up the nearest (and oldest) to hand: someone else's first pour which could have been sitting there for several minutes or more.
The principal cardinal sin is the "scoop". My heart sinks when I see the firm meniscus of a freshly poured pint gouged out by a table knife. Consider the difference between a cappucino and a regular coffee. If the foam of the cappucino retains its substance until the bottom you get the signature taste. If the foam disappears your coffee is indistinguishable from milky coffee. As the foamed milk contributes to the cappucino's flavour so does the head of a pint. It is imperative that a pint retains its head until the end and one sure way of ensuring this doesn't happen is to remove the protective "skin" formed at the top by gouging it out. A related cardinal sin is the narrow head, referred to by my late father as a "Christian Brother" pint due to a resemblance to the slim collar worn by the monks who taught at his school, Just as a scooped head won't last, neither will one of insufficient substance.
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